It’s out with The Archive and in with Momo Sushi Shack, a fantastic new edition to the community of cool grocery stores, cafes and bars by the Morgan Ave L. If you’re a Bushwick resident and you’re
into amazing and beautiful looking Japanese food served up in an unpretentious space with a great vibe, Momo is your new favorite hangout.
I wandered over to Momo, the work of the guys behind the popular Bozu in Williamsburg, a couple of weeks ago and quickly fell in love with the utilitarian long, heavy wooden tables and benches, the low lighting and concrete floors, and the friendly service from co-owner and head chef extraordinaire Phillip, who took the stress out of ordering from an unfamiliar menu. He asked how hungry we were, we said how much, and he whisked away our menus, telling us he’d bring us out a selection of food that we would not be disappointed with.
And we were not disappointed with what came out of the kitchen. The miso soup was tasty and piping hot (Momo doesn’t cut any corners and makes the stock properly with kombu and bonito), the pork and chive gyoza was lightly fried just right, and the selection of sushi bombs featuring cuts of fish like big eye tuna and organic Scottish salmon, presented alongside a trio of soy sauces infused with varying degrees of wasabi, was fresh and flavorsome.
But best of all was the pork belly. This is no regular pork belly. It’s sliced thin, and each slice, set prettily in a fan shape around a big white plate, is drenched in a sweet mix of soy sauce and sake and topped with a delicate drop of wasabi cream sauce and cilantro. Everyone who dines at Momo must indulge in a dish of these mouth-watering morsels of meat. To die for.
As a postscript, Momo doesn’t have a liquor license just yet, but that’s okay: it just means you have to get a drink at Roberta’s around the corner before your meal.
Momo Sushi Shack is located at 43 Bogart Street (between Moore St & Grattan St), Bushwick, Brooklyn. By the Morgan Ave L train.